Words by Bob Thomas MBE
North Wales plays host to some of the most accessible walks, scrambles and climbs in the UK. Easy parking, combined with easy approaches and descents make for a fast scrambling fix. And, taking into account the UK’s fickle weather, you’ll nearly always be able to find a route that’s sheltered from the elements and that ‘goes in the wet’.
With this in mind we thought we’d start to feature some of Contour’s preferred scrambles to give you guys some inspiration and tips.
This month Bob has sent over a personal favourite of his, the Idwal Buttress; a Grade Two Scramble located in the picturesque Cwm Idwal.
Name: Idwal Buttress & Continuation
Location: Cwm Idwal, Ogwen Valley, Snowdonia, North Wales
Grade: Two
Approach: From the Idwal Cottage Car Park, take the well established path that leads generally south from the car park towards the Cwm Idwal. After 15minutes walk you’ll approach the eastern shore of Llyn Idwal. If the weather’s fine and there’s no low cloud, you’ll be able to see the route in its entirety from here. See the picture below.
Skirt the edge of the eastern shore, and make your way towards Idwal Slabs. After another 20 minutes or so you’ll arrive at the centre of the slab, with the face rising up on your left. At this point push on for another 3 minutes or so, taking the footpath that leads uphill towards the Devil’s Kitchen. At the three minute point you’ll find a small stream that crosses the path, from this point look left at the slab that rises up on your left (when facing towards the Devil’s Kitchen), and pick out a small groove that divides the slab. Where the groove meets the ground at the foot of the slab is the start point at 644589 at 460m.
The Scramble: I break the route into three main sections:
For the first, follow the groove all the way to the top of the slab. It’s delightful scrambling, with lots of big hand and footholds and ample places to place protection. For the more adventurous there’s the opportunity to branch out left and make the most of the rounded but rough rock on the left of the groove. There’s less opportunity to place protection, but the friction is superb and the airy, less worn feel of the slab might suit some more than the closed, well travelled line of the groove. Whatever way you choose to take, if the weather’s fine you’re guaranteed some stunning views all around the Cwm. Eventually, the groove and slab end at a well defined flat area of grass and rock and boulders, which makes the perfect spot to take a photo; grab a snack and, if the sky is clear, survey the next two sections of the route.
Photography and snacking complete, it’s time for the next section. You’ll see a series of small rock faces and boulders off to your right hand side (when facing uphill) at about 150-200 metres away. Make for these rocks. You can scramble across these, or avoid, by taking the path to the left of these rocks. Once you’ve passed the rocks and small faces, make uphill, treading slightly right. You’ll see a grassy couloir on your left, which is bounded on the right hand side by a series of slabs and a small rock wall. The rock wall makes for a handy reference point, so head for the point merges with the ground - the lowest point of the cliff face – this is start for the next section.
Now it’s the third section, some delightful scrambling on really good rock. To maintain direction aim for the quartz bands, bypass these and then head for a broad ledge with a large block to the right hand side. From here tread left until you eventually reach the top. (Photo D)
There’s a number of options once you’ve finished Idwal Buttress:
- Take Seniors Ridge to the Summit of Glyder Fawr, then walk back by your preferred route.
- Return to the Idwal Car Park via the well trodden path that leads from Cwm Cneifion to the Sub Cneifion Arete
- Take on the Cneifion Arete
