Words by Bob Thomas MBE
This route features the first climb encountered on the Snowdonia Traverse Challenge (STC): Amphitheatre Buttress.
This east facing climb, situated on the eastern end of the Carneddau and overlooked by Carnedd Llewelyn to the north west, is a true mountain classic. I’ve climbed it many times - in all weather conditions - over the years, and the line has never lost its allure and magic. It’s a North Wales must-do which strangely took second place to its neighbour Great Gully in Ken Wilson’s - Classic Rock
UK Climbing Website has it as a contender for the UK’s best V Diff Climb (330m), and it’s hard to argue why it shouldn’t. Unlike its Idwal Slabs cousins, it doesn’t suffer from the overcrowding and polish that come with N. Wales classic lines. You’d be pushed to encounter anybody else on this route, and with great views; ease of identification; straight forward route finding it’s strange that you don’t find parties stacked up at the start on a summer’s day. The only reason you can attribute to the relative lack of climbers is the approach. From the Ogwen Valley you can take up to an hour and thirty minutes to walk-in, with a steep descent, while the more straight forward approach from the Car Park at Cwm Eigiau requires a vehicle approach, then the walk-in and longer walk out after a full day on the hill
APPROACH
From the Ogwen Valley: A few hundred metres west of Helyg on the Capel Curig to Bangor road (A5) is the start of a tarmac access road SH687603 which strikes directly up the hillside northwards. Parking is available at Gwern Gof Isaf, some 200 metres towards Bangor. Follow the tarmac road through several gates to a fairly level section. Just where the road bears left SH 695623, fork off right, across country, footpath over a rise to pick up a prominent path which contours above the Ffynnon/Lake Llugwy (photo 1). The easy to follow path then strikes gently up the hillside before steepening at a series of zigzags. Eventually, you’ll arrive at Bwlch Eryl Farchog SH 694 633 (Pass of Eryl the Knight, photo 2). When you arrive at the Bwlch descend for c. 400 metres before heading along the base of the cliffs for a further 300m to the start of the climb SH 693637. The paths are well defined but steep. Beware the initial section of the descent is extremely steep and can be treacherous underfoot in damp conditions. Total approach approx one hour fifteen minutes from the road. Route marked Blue on the 1:50,000 map.
Photo 1 Ffynnon/Lake Llugwy and the general line of the path leading to Bwlch/Pass Eryl Farchog
Photo 2 Approach and descent from Bwlch Eryl Farchog taken just North West of the Bwlch
Photo 3 The descent from Bwlch Eryl Farchog to the base of the climb, it’s steeper than it looks!
From Cwm Eigiau: From the car park at SH 7315663 head south east along a flat prominent path. After c. 1 km you’ll cross a stream at SH 723649. Continue south, hand-railing the Afon/River Eigiau on your right hand side. Continue generally south along the path until you re-cross the stream at SH 718640 river now on your left (Photo 4). Form here strike east along the path until you cross Afon Eigiau for the final time at SH 701635. At this point, the crag (see photo 4) should be clearly visible in front of you. Pick up tracks until you make the final steep slog for c. 300 metres and the start of the climb SH 693637 (see photo 4). Route marked red on the 1:50,000 map
Photo 4 Approach from the car park at Cwm Eigiau taken from the south at Bwlch Eryl Farchog
Photo 5 Approaches from Bwlch Eryl Farchog (red) & Cwm Eigiau (blue) to the start
Map The two main approach routes (Red & Blue) and the variation descent route via Carnedd Llewelyn
THE ROUTE
Pitch One | 30 metres
From the base climb two slabby tiers, then a slab to reach a wide stance. A nice start to the climb, but the initial slab seen at the foot of photo 6, can be a little difficult if greasy
The start and initial two pitches of the route with pitch 3 shown by the red circle
Pitch Two | 30 metres
Scrambling leads up to another prominent ledge below a prominent groove and block (Photo 7 & 8)
Photo 7 showing first stance and the second stance (red circle) with slabs of pitch 3 above
Pitch 3 | 40 m
From the stance step right on polished holds then begin some wonderfully exposed but well protected climbing to a block break, which, in turn, leads to a continuation of the slab. You’ll eventually reach a ledge, move left then continue on steep blocks to a wide belay stance below a distinct steep wall
Photo 8 The belay below the 40 m of slab climbing
Pitch 4 | 12 m
The crux of the climb (Photo 9). Climb the polished shallow groove to the right of the wall, well protected, but can be difficult in damp or the wet, particularly if wearing boots. Reach what appears to be a detached block and continue heading upwards, treading right on good holds until you reach another large ledge with a steeper, but easier wall behind it. Note that the edge of the stance can be slippy in the wet. (Photo 10)
Photo 9 Looking up at the shallow groove and the airy step to the right. Detached block also visible
Photo 10 Enjoying lunch after negotiating the crux move
Pitch 5 | 15 metres
From the ledge, move left two metres and then pick a line (shown by the red arrow) up the face. Not a hard as the previous pitch, but, once again, can be slippy in the wet. Access the prominent heathery crest which leads to the pinnacles and the belay (Photo 11)
Photo 11 The face, from the ledge after the crux, taken on its left hand side
Pitch 6 | 70 metres
Seventy metres of walking and vegetated scrambling leads to a point where the ridge narrows and forms a sharp ridge. Belay at this point (blue circle in photo 11)
Pitch 7 | 30 m
Downclimb carefully from the platform then follow the ridge horizontally on its left hand side, using the top of the ridge for handholds; traverse a gap, two gendarmes and a sharp edge before more scrambling leads to the main mass of the mountain (red circle in Photo 11). Care should be taken when negotiating the ridge and in particular, when arranging belays post traverse as many of the smaller gendarmes are loose.
Photo 11 Showing the approach and the subsequent movement across the pinnacles
Pitch 8 & 9 | 60m
Walk up to regain two small broken ridges on the right hand side. There’s a tricky awkward move over blocks and the start of the pitch and care should be taken to avoid rope drag and sharp edges. After the blocks, you’ll find a nice wide stance followed by the final 30 metres of climbing. An initial polished groove and then moves gradually upwards with the face on your right and the gully on your left. The climb finishes abruptly, with the steep wall surrendering to flat rock at the top of the final pitch – ideal for a well earned rest and a great point to take in the fantastic views (photo 12 & 13)
Photo 12 Looking down from the top of the climb with the bulk of the route with the exception of the pinnacles and pitches 8 & 9 visible. Also, a good view towards Cwm Eigiau
Photo 13 Sorting out kit at the top of the route with Carnedd Llewelyn in the background
THE DESCENT
For those that have parked in the Ogwen Valley then it’s a fairly easy way back via the route in. For those that have parked in Cwm Eigiau then there are two options. First is to descend into Bwlch Eryl Farchog and then follow the approach route to the base of the climb as for the Ogwen Valley Approach. You’re your way back to the base of the climb and then take the path down the scree slope that you took on the approach back to the valley floor and the paths to the car park.
An alternative route, for those with something still left in the tank, is to head for Carnedd Llewelyn SH 683643. From this point head north east to the saddle at SH 688 652. At the saddle descend south east on the broad ridge to SH 709653. From here pick the easiest route to the access road which leads you back to the car park at Cwm Eigiau. Routes marked Blue and Black on the 1:50,000 map
