Words by Bob Thomas MBE
This route features a Skye Classic East Ridge (Moderate, 65m) on the Inaccessible Pinnacle a route that’s popular - for many reasons - with walkers and climbers alike, due to Munro status and fabulous location on the Cuillin Ridge. No trip to the Black Cuillins is complete without a visit to this iconic piece of British Rock, be it to just savour its natural architecture or to scale its ridge or flank. Best done on a clear day so you can savour the fantastic view and make the most of the route to be had on its shark-fin like ridge or the selections climbs on its south face
APPROACH | 3.5 km, 2hrs 30 mins
From Sligachan Hotel: From the road junction at the Sligachan Hotel NG 485298 take the A863 generally west for approximately 8 km to another road junction (with prominent wooden scarecrow) at NG 414313. Here turn left and follow the B8009 for a further 3 km to another junction at NG 389310. Turn left and follow signs for Glenbrittle. After 10 km of driving, on single lane surfaced road with passing places, you’ll arrive at the Glen Brittle Memorial Hut with a car park on the left hand side at NG 4221 2130. See photo 1.
Walk-in: From the car park walk south for 100m and then pick up the well-defined track next to the drystone wall at Grid NG 4116 2155. Take the track east for c. 800m towards a well know beauty spot the Eas Mor Waterfalls. See photo 2/3
Skirt around the waterfalls and gorge on its southern side and continue along the path, crossing a footbridge at NG 4141 2144. Cross the bridge and keep your eyes peeled for the track junction that leads up Sgurr Dearg’s western ridge at NG 4221 2130
Photo 1 General line of the approach past Eas Mor (not visible) and Sgurr Dearg’s western ridge
Photo 2 Eas Mor Waterfalls and the general line to Sgurr Dearg and the Inaccessible Pinnacle
Photo 3 Looking back to the start Track and gentle ground after Eas Mor
After the track junction, the ground begins to rise in front of you as you near the western ridge proper. At NG 4299 2136 the gradient steepens and the path zig-zags with the ground a little looser underfoot. The zig-zags continue for some 400m at which point the slope flattens and the walking becomes a lot easier. See photo 4/5
Photo 4 Flatter section after the zig-zags, looking back towards the end of the zig-zags
Photo 5 Flatter ridge section after the zig-zags and the scramble (green arrows)
The flat section of the ridge terminates at NG 4398 2137, at this point the scrambling starts, with some exposed sections on the Coire Lagan side of the ridge. Rope and helmet is advised at this point. See Photo 5. A further 350-400m of scrambling leads to the Summit of Sgurr Dearg and the Inaccessible Pinnacle, and the start of the climb proper. See Photo 6
Photo 6 Route on Sgurr Dear’s western ridge and the Inaccessible Pinnacle (yellow circle) from the north
THE ROUTE | East Ridge, 65m, Moderate
From the summit ridge which overlooks the Inaccessible Pinnacle, scramble down below the south face. Great care should be taken here as the slab can make for difficult movement and care should be taken not to dislodge rock and stone onto other parties. Note that on a good day the Pinnacle is a honey point for climbers and Munro Baggers. Tempers can become frayed and priority should always be given to parties undertaking a Cuillin Ridge Traverse. Rucksacks can be left in the area opposite the abseil point on the ridge proper. Gear up before moving to the start of the climb
Pitch One | 30 metres
Start at the foot of the ridge (red circle) Climb the broken chimney to the south of the ridge to reach a ramp that runs parallel with the crest. Crux shortly after the route gains the ridge and can be protected with a sling on a spike. Continue on the ledge on the Coruisk side until a belay (on spikes) is possible at c. 30m. (Blue circle). See Photo 7
Pitch 2 | 35 metres
Continue easily along the ridge on good holds until you arrive at good block belays and the fixed abseil point (green circle) from where a short abseil leads back to daysacks. See photo 7.
Photo 7 The East Ridge Route, showing start, belay and abseil point
Photo 8 On the Inaccessible Pinnacle showing the ridge and exposure
Photo 9 Abseil from the top of the Pinnacle back to the ruck sacks
Photo 9 Enjoying a cup of tea post climb and savouring the views, yellow circle shows location of abseil point
THE DESCENT
There are several options for descent:
1 – Retrace your steps and descend via the west flank
2 – Descend via Coire lagan and the scree slope. The slab, as mentioned can be tricky in the wet
3 – Depending on how much daylight and the weather conditions, continue to Sgurr na Banachdich and then descend via Coire an Eich. A good route, with a scramble approach to the summit of Sgurr na Banachdich. Note that the descent into Coire an Eich can be tricky in poor visibility and only those parties competent in the use of map and compass should use this method of descent
